These four perfumers are artists who tell stories and express emotions. They develop fragrances for those who live and love individuality.
Luxury from a tea caddy.
Kodos is the name for the Japanese art of appreciating fragrances. Satori Osawa from Japan did this by studying fragrance design and perfumery. Later, she created her own brand called Parfum Satori. Her creations are also oriented to Japanese culture. Taking a break several times a day to freshly apply perfume is a common beauty ritual in the Far East. That is why the fragrances from Satori Osawa are refined rather than heavy.
Her creation Satori contains a hint of oud derived from agarwood, which costs as much as 10,000 euros per gram. Satori is packaged in a chatsubo, a Japanese tea caddy. The caddy is sealed with a kumihimo knot, traditionally used to protect treasures, as it is here: just 60 milliliters (2 fl. oz) of Satori costs 100,000 yen, or around 800 euros.
The trend toward individual items.
A perfumer who captures the character of a person in a flacon – that is the Brit Roja Dove. For him, fragrances should retain memories and feelings and bring them back again and again, the same way that the good-night kiss from his freshly perfumed mother stuck in his memory as a fragrance. The British national exclusively uses natural oils and high-quality extracts in his work.
On request, Roja Dove creates individual items that reflect the personality of the wearer in a fragrance. That takes time – and money: up to two years and just under 25,000 euros. The flacons of Roja perfume are also works of art, made from crystal glass and gold, wrapped in silk.
Perfumes made from molecules and agarwood, a tailored individual fragrance, or poetry packaged in a scent: niche perfumes create fragrance notes that are surprising and different.
Poetry and the art of perfumery.
The creations of Thai national Pissara Umavijani combine classic French chic with the elegance of Thailand. Using the name Parfums Dusita, the artist works in her chosen home of Paris with natural aromas from Thai tradition: jasmine, sandalwood, sage, and rose.
Her fragrance collection is a tribute to the work of her father, the internationally renowned poet Montri Umavijani. In this way, craftsmanship and poetry are combined. It is not without good reason that the word Dusita stands for pure joy and satisfaction!
Zarko Ahlmann Pavlov.
The science of fragrances.
The creations of Danish perfumer Zarko Ahlmann Pavlov have the scent of complete individuality. His trademark: mixing molecular science with traditional perfume craftsmanship. Pavlov develops fragrances on a molecular basis that connect with the individual skin aroma of the wearer after they are applied. That means his molecular perfumes never smell the same on two different people.
But it is not only the fragrance creations from Zarko Ahlmann Pavlov that are completely individual – he is, too: Pavlov is the first, and so far only, perfumer in Denmark. His perfume bottles under the Zarkoperfume label are filled by hand at the Copenhagen city gates.
Illustrations | Petra Dufkova